|Posted by Jan Bella on March 29, 2012 at 3:35 AM||comments (0)|
It has been very busy few weeks since last post. Weather have been amazing through and I was constantly climbing outdoors. Lot of practice sessions and checking new routes on Helm Crag. They should all be included in the new FRCC guide. Especially Illuminaty HVS is worth doing.
Few days were spent on Black crag above the Wrynose pass. Beautiful rough rock and south facing position gave days special feel. I managed to lead some HVSs but still only looking from the distance on those E1. I got another trip planned for so I'll give them a top rope ascent and see how they feel.
I had a good day on the Pavey Ark yesterday. We did four pitch Crescent Slabs Sev. Then moved to the shade of Bright Beck Crag and checked less traveled routes on there. Great routes on a roughest slab ever just a shame there wasn't much protection avaiable.
Susan leading first two pitches on the Crescent Slabs:
Susan toproping the Walk on Sunshine on Bright Back Crag:
Thursday we went to the Black crag and Long Scar again. Quiet few routes got done with some practice for SPA. I led the Ann's Agony HVS and toproped the Glass Slipper E2 5b and Sleep On My Pillow E1 5b. Think I'll be going for a lead on that one next time around.
Crack of Ann's Agony and face is the Glass Slipper:
|Posted by Jan Bella on March 7, 2012 at 11:40 AM||comments (0)|
This justifiably popular route has been on my list for quiet a while but for some reason I never got to climb it. All of that changed on Monday when on my break from work we drove up and gave it a shot. Marek has led the route we had all for our self with just one party way infront of us.
First pitch follows a crack and groove then you'll climb over the flake and onto a tree belay. Second pitch continues up the V shaped corner and what is probably one of the best moves on the rock where you need to sit down and slide to get to a corner and onto a saddle belay. Top of second pitch has some of the best position in the Lakes in my opinion. Third pitch is slightly overhanging but easy to climb and route finishes on a large ledge with great views of the valley.
here is the video, you can also view it in my "Video" section
top of the second pitch
|Posted by Jan Bella on February 15, 2012 at 6:45 PM||comments (0)|
Langdale Boulders and Route 1 on Upper Scout Crag
I was properly psyched for todays bouldering session at Langdale Boulders. First I checked out alleged dry tooling marks and they are definitely there.
Crack on the top boulder has marks and chips on it. Needles to say it isn't a great sight. But let's not even go there...
Bouldering session didn't go well (not mine anyway) so me and Matt went to the Upper Scout Crag just down the road from the boulders. I had in mind easy multi pitch route – Route 1. 50 meters and HVD it was a nice treat for my cold and numb fingers after bouldering.
Route starts just left of Yew tree and below a large Holly. First short pitch leads through slabby grooves to the base of the arête, where you can belay. I actually went little higher and belayed of one of the trees. Second pitch takes you over the block and to the right onto an arête. This is one of the best pitches of its grade in Langdale and is beautifully exposed. After few difficulties you can belay on one of the ledges. Route 1 it's a great easy route for those just starting out or as an introduction to multi pitch climbing.
Langdale from Scout Crag on 15/02/12
|Posted by Jan Bella on January 16, 2012 at 4:30 PM||comments (0)|
It all started with a promise of climbing one of the R. J. Birketts classic routes. Slip Knot. A classic Lakeland VS taking excelent line up the slab then going left under the large roof and around onto the rib. Me and Matt met up at Grasmere and drove up to Langdale. From the car park White Ghyll towers about the New Dungeon Ghyll hotel. 30 minutes aproach left me rather breathless so I sat down and started to think about routes we could climb.
Slip Knot was my first choice so I geared up as quickly as I could and was off. Climb starts in a corner and then moves onto the slab which provides plesant climbing at about grade 4b with plenty of protection. Top of first pitch is on the right side of the roof with nice views of Langdale valley. Matt quickly followed and we changed over on the belay. Famous part of Lakeland climbing was at the touch of my hands. I traversed under the roof and climbed on the rib. I 've done it! I've done Birkett's route. Short upper section was pretty easy and soon after Matt climbed up we were on our way back down.
On a same day we climbed the Hollin Grove route wich was little bit wet, but a nice climb and I managed to get lost on a top of second pitch on the White Ghyll wall. Hopefully this season I'll repeat this climb and add many more on this great crag.
|Posted by Jan Bella on January 15, 2012 at 1:10 PM||comments (0)|
The English Lake District has unique oportunity for rock climbing from small road side crags to spectacular hight moutain crags. From easy grades to high Extreme climbs everybody can find the right climb. It all begun by ascending of the Napes Needle by W. P. Haskett in 1886 and since then it grew beyond imaginaion of any of the early pioneers.
Most popular areas are Langdale and Borrowdale valley together with Wasdale and Dow area.
In this Blog I will introduce you more to different climbing areas and styles in Lake district and also to variety of techniques used in today's climbing.
Please stay tuned in and if you have any questionas dont hasitate to email me.