Summit plateau

Alpine Butterfly

This is an extremely useful knot, in particular in relations to rigging fixed ropes and tying on to middle of the rope when moving together. Its main advantage is its ability to cope with a pull equally from either direction, without knot distorting. 

 

 Fold the top of the loop down over the twist so that the top loop is between the 

two standing parts. Then push the loop through the opening in the centre of the twist.